I got sick and tired of the left or the right or BOTH lights going out and having to turn them back on more frequently than ever on my 2004. And not being an extremely wealthy person, I wasn't about spending money on these expensive bulbs once or twice or ever. Meanwhile my married woman's 2007 with Halogen bulbs (which lit up the road just fine) was working perfectly with no such safety issues, so I idea, hey, why non popular these chipped faded faulty headlights out and put in a pair of new articulate Element of group vii style units in mine? Happy I did. No more than troubles. But it's non a straight plug and play solution, and then hither'southward what I can share.
First, I bought those female crimp plugs, the big ones that fit the 9003 H4 blazon bulb prongs. I took the GREEN wire that feeds the fog lights and hooked that upward as the running light (looking at the bulb from rear, it'southward the LEFT prong, the Acme prong is GROUND).
Cute, nice and bright, just accept to make sure to leave the fog light band on the headlight switch turned to the on position from now on, so the headlight control works as expected. Depression Beam handled.
Adjacent, if I e'er wanted vivid lights again, I'll demand to apply the BLUE wire which I hooked up to the Hello Axle filament which is the prong on the RIGHT rear of the H4 bulb.
Here's the PROBLEM. The BLUE wire sends a LOW VOLTAGE feed so my High-Beams are underpowered. This is considering it's designed to send a "signal" only, to the HID brain works, when y'all select the Brights from the within of the motorcar. It does light up the High Beam filament, and since the Low Axle's are now powered by the Fog lead which goes OFF when in High Beam mode (blue calorie-free on dash), information technology functions equally information technology should... I drove around similar this using the Loftier Axle equally day-time running lights and switched to Low Beam when information technology got dark.
LASTLY, I'g going to buy a couple relays. I'll tap into the Side Maker light (orange, side of headlight) positive wire, and make THAT the 12v FULL voltage feed for the brights. Then the BLUE wire will trigger the relay and pass the full 12 volts to the High Beam filament. Now we're done.
This mail service was designed to share a solution that price me next to null, confirm that hey, you're Not the only one who wanted to to do this, and confirm YES information technology can indeed be done - even with no wiring diagram or degree in electronic wiring schematic reading (that mail above gave me a caput ache).
Cost for a pair of halogen headlights assemblies near $130.00 shipped, plus wire connectors and relays nigh $xl.00 plus $xx.00 for a pair of bulbs, and you'll demand to spend almost $30 bucks at the Toyota dealership for the twist-n-lock rubber round "lids" that continue grit out. The top of a ii litre coke canteen with iii holes drilled to allow wires through and a little silicone caulk fits those OEM "lids" perfectly.
The motorcar looks fantastic, lights the route similar when my wife's 2007 was brand new, and it took nearly 2 hours to practise (yes you lot have to remove the bumper cover, come across YouTube).
As for Fog Lights, you take two options: You tin can keep yours, if you don't heed them coming on every fourth dimension yous turn on your Low Beams, just install a splice-connect in-line... or install a fog calorie-free push on your dash and run a new power feed to them.
My fog lights were chipped and croaky and I don't demand/utilize them here in SoCal and so I chucked those and I put an aftermarket aluminum grille for $50 in down in that location.
I'm
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